Tucked into the alpine town of Udaipur in Lahaul, the Markula Devi Temple is a 7th-century wooden marvel dedicated to Goddess Kali in her fierce Mahishasuramardini form. With its Kashmiri-Kannauj architecture, exquisite deodar carvings, and mystical legends, this temple is a living museum of Himalayan spirituality and craftsmanship.
🌄 Location & Accessibility
- Location: Udaipur town, Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh – 175142
- Altitude: ~2,623 meters above sea level
- How to Reach:
- By Road: Manali → Atal Tunnel → Tandi → Udaipur (~156 km)
- By Rail: Nearest station – Pathankot (~300 km)
- By Air: Bhuntar Airport (Kullu) – 204 km
- Local Access: Taxis and HRTC buses available from Keylong and Manali
🛕 Historical & Mythological Significance
- Believed to be built in the 7th century by Raja Meru Varman of Chamba, though some legends trace it to the Pandavas, who supposedly carved it from a single block of wood
- The temple is revered by both Hindus and Buddhists—Kali is worshipped as Vajreshwari Devi by Hindus and as Dorje Phamo (Vajravarahi) by Buddhists
- Local lore speaks of a hidden skull cup (khappar) behind the idol, said to contain the blood of Mahishasura. Viewing it is believed to cause blindness, adding an aura of sacred fear
🕉️ Deity & Worship
The presiding deity of the temple is Goddess Kali, worshipped here in her fierce form as Mahishasuramardini, the slayer of the buffalo demon. The sanctum houses a silver idol with eight arms, standing atop Mahishasura, symbolizing the triumph of divine feminine power over evil. Interestingly, the goddess is also revered by Buddhists as Dorje Phamo (Vajravarahi), reflecting the temple’s syncretic spiritual heritage.
Worship rituals include daily offerings of red cloth, incense, ghee lamps, and seasonal flowers. During the Fagli festival, the priest performs a secret ritual involving the hidden khappar (skull cup) said to contain the blood of Mahishasura—viewing it is considered inauspicious. Devotees are advised to leave the temple in silence, as speaking while exiting is believed to bring misfortune. The goddess is invoked for protection, justice, and inner strength, and her blessings are sought before major life decisions or journeys.
🏛️ Architectural Highlights
- Constructed in Kashmiri-Kannauj style, with a nine-panelled lantern-style wooden roof
- Intricate deodar wood carvings depict scenes from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and even Buddhist lore like the Assault of Mara
- The silver idol of Kali is a fusion of Rajasthani, Kashmiri, and Tibetan styles, with eight arms and a dynamic posture
- The temple’s pillars, façade, and ceiling beams are adorned with celestial beings, apsaras, and mythological episodes, rivaling the artistry of the Hadimba Temple in Manali
🎉 Rituals & Traditions
- Fagli Festival (February–March):
- The priest performs a secret ritual involving the hidden khappar
- Locals gather in traditional attire, singing folk songs and offering prayers
- Unique Departure Ritual: Devotees are advised not to say “Let’s go” when leaving the temple, as it is believed to invite misfortune. Silent departure is considered auspicious
- Daily Worship: Offerings of red cloth, incense, and ghee lamps are made to the goddess
🏞️ Nearby Attractions
- Trilokinath Temple: A sacred Shaiva-Buddhist shrine just 20 km away
- Tandi Sangam: Confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers
- Miyar Valley: Known as the “Valley of Flowers” of Lahaul
- Kardang & Shashur Monasteries: Major Drukpa Kagyu gompas near Keylong
- Sissu & Gemur: Scenic villages with waterfalls and cultural richness
🙏 Spiritual Experience
The Markula Devi Temple is not just a shrine—it’s a sacred sculpture in wood, a repository of Himalayan myth, and a testament to the syncretic soul of Lahaul. As you step into its dimly lit sanctum, surrounded by centuries-old carvings and the scent of cedar and incense, you feel the goddess’s fierce grace watching over the valley.
